Re: Bright Work Recommendations
Aug 15, 2007 09:25 PDT
I did the CSY$$ yesterday and got a good chuckle out of it!? Worse, somebody distracted me and I held the key down too long and my result came out more like CSY$$$$$$!!
p.s. - I fully expected that a complete refit of a 30 year old boat (that is more than deserving of it) would be a considerable expense.? However, I did think it would be in the range of $70,000.? At this point, I am looking at $150,000!? I am not a fan of electronics.? So, this number does not even include fancy chartplotters, etc.? Still, when everything is said and done, I believe it is worth it.? And, if the boat holds up for another 30 years it will probably outlast me and I will consider it a life well lived.
Still, I am ready to get back to retirement and?full time, live-aboard sailing!? I was happily retired and sailing around the Caribbean before I decided to refit the boat and do the circumnavigation thing.? The re-commissioning is the ONLY reason that I am back behind a desk.
From: David Damm <email@example.com>
Sent: Wed, 15 Aug 2007 8:42 am
Subject: RE: [CSY] Bright Work Recommendations
One prep step I don't see mentioned in this thread is "bleaching". I like to
use oxalic acid after stripping and light sanding to brighten the wood. Its
effect on weathered gray teak is just amazing.
It is the main ingredient in the packaged teak brighteners, but is much
cheaper at the paint store & some Home Depot's in crystal form. A container
around a half pint or so is $5-7 bucks and will do the whole boat. You mix
it with water in a bucket, swab it onto wet teak, let it soak for a while
and rinse thoroughly before it dries. I wait three days between bleaching
and varnishing to allow any moisture from the process to dry completely. The
teak dries to what I call an "old bone" color and is much lighter and even
colored when the finish is applied. The acid is very mild and easy to work
with and will not harm (in my experience) any painted or varnished surface.
It is also an excellent rust stain remover. Lay a rag soaked with the stuff
over a gel coat rust stain a few hours and the stain is gone. (I let it go
overnight on a tough stain on our last boat with no ill effects to the gel
As for finish, I used Cetol on our last two boats and also when we
refinished our 44 w/o. It was no big deal to maintain the bright work on a
Catalina 30, but a CSY is a real commitment. I am considering a two part
finish like the "Bristol", any comments in that regard would be appreciated.
Intrepid Captain & Chief Maintenance officer
CSY44 w/o "Tradewinds" XM model
Has anyone else noticed that if you don't let up on the shift key "CSY44"
comes out "CSY$$" there's something Freudian about that slip of the
From: AndrewZRX [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 2:29 AM
To: email@example.com; firstname.lastname@example.org
Subject: Re: [CSY] Bright Work Recommendations
Practical Sailor has some great articles on this. Epifanes and Cetol seem
to be their favourites. They've been doing ongoing tests - check out their
website to find which issues you need:
Myself I've used Cetol, and while it looks great initially, it does require
a lot of upkeep, as others have mentioned. And it's not just UV you need to
consider - extended heavy-weather sailing also takes its toll on the
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter and Jan Hibbard" <email@example.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 12:04 AM
Subject: [CSY] Bright Work Recommendations
Was looking for recommendations for bright work. Mine is a faded grey
with streaks of old Cetol. Was in a boatyard in Pensacola today. They
first strip with a heat gun and or a liquid stripper and then sand.
Their prefernce was to use two coats of sealer (Petit or Interlux), 4-6
coats of Schooner type varnish followed by two coats of Allgrip clear.
They said they get 2 years out of this application. I was wondering what
others are having success with? Has anyone used Bristol? TeQua?
Peter and Jan Hibbard
CSY 37 B "JAZZ" 1978 #006
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