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Trip Report on Border Route Trail Reconnaissance
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Ed Solstad
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Aug 17, 2009 15:26 PDT
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In retrospect perhaps the marketing for this trip was misleading.
It could really have been marketed as a training trip for a through hike
of Panama's Darien Gap minus practice on how to avoid poisonous snakes,
insects that can be really nasty as opposed to just annoying, and not to
mention those dangerous river crossings with who knows what lurking in
the water. We did however have Panama style vegetation density & weather
conditions with Saturday highs in the mid-80's with high humidity plus
lots of dense vegetation that differed primarily in terms of hight and
type. Unlike the Panamanian jungle, none of the plants that we
encountered had thorns - well maybe the raspberries have little ones but
they also provided ripe berries so it was a good trade off. There was
some rain on Saturday night and then again early Sunday morning and
again later Sunday afternoon. Not anywhere close to the rainy season in
Panama but at least a semi-reasonable replication of the so-called dry
season as it exists in the Darien. After all this is Minnesota that
we're dealing with.
Oh, another genuine plus over the real thing was that we didn't have to
worry about bumping into vacationing members of the FARC.
There are indeed some benefits beyond cheaper transportation costs to
hiking on the BWCAW portion of the Border Route as opposed to making
your way on foot through the rain forests between Central and South America.
We split up into two four person teams. One team canoed in from Hungry
Jack Lodge and Outfitters to Stairway Portage and proceeded to hike west
on the BRT and out the South Lake Trail while the other team hiked in
on the Daniels Lake Trail and followed the Border Route to Stairway
Portage where they picked up the canoes and paddled them back to Hungry
Jack Lodge. It was probably the most efficient way to check out that
portion of trail. No backpacks, or other gear to slow us down plus there
was no way that we were going to hike the Caribou Rock Trail into
Stairway Portage instead of paddling in by canoe. We may be thick headed
and a bit stubborn at times but we're not that out of it.
Before heading in on the Daniels Lake Trail, I stopped in at Clearwater
Lodge to inquire as to whether they had received any trail user
comments. After identifying myself as part of a survey team from the
BRTA, I received a very curt response to the effect that, no, no one had
left any comments what-so-ever. End of conversation from their
perspective. Perhaps she was having an off day. With that type of
attitude though it is no wonder that they don't support trail crews in
the same manner as the resorts on Gunflint Lake.
The Daniels Lake Trail was sufficiently dry so as to avoid wet feet
compared to the reports that I'd received regarding a May, 09 trip.
Another trip report had made no mention of flooding on the Long Portage.
That proved to be correct and we were faced with the high water that was
reported by past users. Life was relatively good so far. We encountered
a moderate amount of brush between Clearwater and the Long Portage but
nothing out of the ordinary for a lightly used wilderness trail.
The BRT proper was a different story. The first portion along the shore
of Rose Lake heading west from the Long Portage was in need of
maintenance but was relatively easy to follow. My notes indicate 7
individual deadfalls, one pile of deadfall, plus a lot of balsam fir
encroachment between the portage and the lakeside campsite. Pretty much
what one would expect in an area with tree cover.
The situation got progressively worse as we proceeded west bound.
Between the lakeside campsite and the backpacker campsite we counted
individual 15 deadfalls, two piles of deadfall, continued balsam
encroachment, and an increasing amount of brush. It should also be
noted that the paths to the thrown were in all cases more obvious than
twas the BRT itself. That didn't however prevent some users from using
the side of the trail as a makeshift latrine. Who are these people
anyway? Do we need to post "No defecating within 50 ft of trail" signs?
Again the situation was progressively worse as we began climbing the
ridge as we headed west from the backpacker campsite. We were getting
into the area hit by the uly 4th, 1999 Big Blow. We have one way point
labeled chaos! Between the backpacker campsite and Stairway Portage we
counted 48 individual deadfalls, 5 heaps of deadfall, and thousands of
individual chest high brushy plants of various types encroaching on the
long suffering BRT. Even with crews yielding multiple power brushcutters
this would be a maintenance nightmare. I have no idea what the answer is
using hand tools. A further problem is that the first 40% of the trail
west bound from the backpacker campsite does not appear to follow the
original routing in that there are multiple direction changes and sharp
climbs that would not have been part of the original routing. Granted,
locating the original route after the Big Blow would have been extremely
difficult, not to mention also presumably harder to clear as opposed to
following the path of least resistance. This situation makes the trail
much more difficult to follow, especially for those with less than
excellent route finding skills. Again, I have no idea what options might
be available at this point in time.
Interestingly enough as we proceeded west the trail once again appeared
to follow the original alignment as the seemingly aimless direction
changes ceased and we once again resumed heading in a constant westerly
direction. The brush however, continued unabated until we were finally
rewarded by arriving at a fine overlook just to the east of Stairway
Portage.
Now it must be noted in all fairness that aside from the spirit of
adventure and the sense of being able to persevere over all obstacles in
our path, one of the plus sides to all of this was that both the
raspberries and blueberries were ripe. This fact alone probably slowed
our progress as much as anything.
We took another break and headed down to the waiting canoes. The trip
across Duncan, Bearskin, and Hungry Jack was relaxing and uneventful - a
nice break from the Thicket From Hell. We returned the canoes and piled
into the van for the drive over to the South Lake Trailhead. Hmmm, their
car was still there when we arrived at 6:20. While Mary Theresa grabbed
a shower at Rockwood Lodge I hiked up the South Lake Trail to meet the
other group which reported brush even higher than we had encountered.
They were however in good spirits after being rewarded by the splendid
views from the Rose Lake Cliffs plus an abundant supply of ripe
raspberries and blueberries. We'll have more details as they are posted
by Ken Jackson, their team leader.
We then rewarded ourselves by making our way to the Red Paddle Bistro at
Gunflint Lodge for excellent sandwiches and fish chowder not to mention
blueberry and fruit of the forest pie and a great cheescake.
The next morning it started raining at 5:00AM but had stopped by the
time that we finally got up at 7:30. I came to the conclusion that my
co-trippers need a break from excessive amounts of brush and that
instead we should do a reconnaissance of one of my favorite loop routes
on the BRT. We drove over to the public landing at the west end of Loon
Lake and did the loop up to the BRT, east past the Gunflint High Cliffs
and back to the van via the Brice-Breon. Those that were new to the BRT
got to see what the non-wilderness portions are like. They loved the
high cliffs and the overlooks near the junction with the Brice-Breon.
Normally we do maintenance on the Brice-Breon every year. I'd forgotten
that we didn't get all the way through last fall due to having a smaller
than normal group for the annual fall trip to Heston's resort. Because
of that we ran into more deadfalls and brush than I was expecting but,
the groves of large cedars made up for that. The last third of the
Brice-Breon was in much better condition with the very last piece from
the campsite to the public landing being well used and in excellent
condition. Since we encountered deadfalls and brush on the first part we
were able to assuage our guilt feelings over not following through on
the original Sunday plan of doing reconnaissance on the BRT from the
South Lake Trail through to Loon Lake. What a deal!
After getting out of the woods, we stopped in at Heston's to say hello
and catch up on local happenings. This was followed by an enjoyable
daylight drive out the Gunflint Trail and down the North Shore.
I wish to give a hearty thanks to the people on the trip: Fred Morgan
from Finland, MN, Ken Jackson from Cloquet, and Brent McNabb, James
Howell, Lynn Mucciacciaro, Mary Theresa Downing and Matt Dynan from the
Twin Cities. What a great group of enthusiastic people who are all ready
to get back up to the BRT for some more fun in the woods!
We presently have the following mechanized trips planned for secttions
outside of the BWCAW:
Labor Day Weekend, 9/5-9/7: Pigeon River Cliffs Section - Finish up this
section from the west end of the Ridge to the east of the Otter Lk Junc
to the junc with the SHT.
Friday-Sunday, 9/18 - 9/20: Recon of the BWCAW pieces that we didn't get
to on Sunday 8/16, Maint on the Brice Breon Tr & BRT east of Heston's.
Thur-Sunday, 10/15-18: Annual Heston's weekend - Mechanized maintenance
on remaining Gunflint BRT and connecting trails. (Note that those that
have gone on prior wilderness or mechanized maintenance trips this year
get priority on this particular trip.)
We're hoping to get the various likely candidates for Wilderness Trip
Leadership together either this week or next week to try to pull
together some fall trips to start a renewed assault on the BWCAW
sections. Just so you don't become terminally discouraged, it should be
noted that Ken Jackson hiked the McFarland to Clearwater section this
past May before the leaves were out and reported that it was in much
better condition than the sections that we hiked through this past Saturday.
Also remember that a 40% Rover member discount is available for those to
whom the trip cost might be a financial hardship.
Photos will soon be available. Please email me for links.
Hope to see you on the BRT this fall.
Ciao,
Ed Solstad
612-822-0569
esol-@pressenter.com
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