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Re: Top Anchor Systems
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Helmut F. Microys Ph. D.
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Aug 16, 2003 15:54 PDT
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THE FOLLOWING ARE COMMENTS THAT REFLECT THE THINKING OF THE UIAA SAFETY
COMMISSION FOR TOP ANCHORS OF ONE-PITCH SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joffrey Hyman" <li-@saclimb.co.za>
To: <sabol-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 11:53 PM
Subject: [BOLTS] Top Anchor Systems
| | Post from Derek Marshall
Please can I have some input on preferred top anchor systems. And
comments on below:
A. Systems which require threading
1. Hanger + single ring/link
2. Hanger + double ring/link
3. Hanger + multiple rings/link
4. Hanger + 'D' shackle
5. Threaded eye nuts
6. Double short chain directly bolted to face
7. 6mm thick hanger with rounded edges
8. Glued in 'P' bolts
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TWO BOLTS + CHAIN + TWO RINGS (ONE CONNECTED TO THE OTHER)
THE USE OF TWO RINGS PREVENTS THE ROPE FROM RUBBING ON THE ROCK AND GETTING
PINCHED.
GLUE-IN ANCHORS ONLY FOR ALL APPLICATIONS. THINK LIFE-CYCLE COSTS.
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B. Systems which require no untying to thread
1. Hanger + pig tail
2. Single pig tail direct to the face
4. Double pig tail direct to face
5. Chain direct to wall connected to Stainless crab on hanger
6. 6mm thick hanger with clipable hole for rope
7. Double cold shuts
8. Double short chain fixed direct to face, ending with steel screw
gate
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THE PROBLEM HERE IS WHETHER THERE CAN BE ACCIDENTAL UNCLIPPING OF THE ROPE,
IF THE CLIMBER GOES HIGHER THAN THE ANCHOR. AT LEAST TWO FATALITIES WITH A
CERTAIN PRODUCT IN EUROPE. CHECK THE POSSIBLITY OF THIS HAPPENING WITH THE
DESIGN YOU PLAN TO USE
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C. Single bolt systems as apposed to the current SA fashion of 2 bolt
systems
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YOU SHOULD HAVE REDUNDENCY IN SUCH A SYSTEM AND NOT DEPEND ON ONLY ONE
ANCHOR
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D. So what are the most important components of a successful top anchor
system? Any comments please.
1. Price
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SHOULD NOT MATTER TOO MUCH, IF YOU LOOK AT LIFE-CYCLE COSTS
NOT A PROBLEM WITH A PROPERLY SIZED ANCHOR
DON'T UNDERSTAND
STAINLESS STEEL. IN THE INTERIOR (FIVE km FROM THE COAST) 304 MAY DO IT.
IN THE BETWEEN AREA (UP TO ONE TO TWO km FROM THE COAST) COULD USE 316L (EN
1.4432, WHICH HAS HIGHER Mo CONTENT) OR 317L.
IN COASTAL RANGES USE TITANIUM, NICKEL ALLOYS SUCH AS INCONEL 625 OR
HASTELLOY C, AUSTENITIC STEELS SUCH AS 254 SMO OR 654 SMO, DUPLEX STEEL
SUCH AS 2205. CHECK OUT AVAILABILITY, PRICE AND MANUFACTURING METHODS
| | 5. Not causing rope damage i.e.. twisting or abrasion
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SOLVED BY PROPER DESIGN OR DOUBLE RING METHOD
| | 6. Number of bolts in system
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MINIMUM TWO
| | 7. Off setting / distributing force
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DON'T UNDERSTAND. BOLTS ARE GENERALLY PLACED SIDE-BY SIDE, BUT COULD BE IN
SERIES, IF PROPERLY DESIGNED
FOLLOW MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS
| | 9. End user process education (education on how to safely thread)
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SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE FALLEN OFF (BEEN KILLED) DURING THIS PROCESS. VERY
IMPORTANT
GENERALLY NOT A PROBLEM ON ONE-PITCH CLIMBS
TITANIUM BOLTS SEE www.ushba.com. FOR OTHER "COASTAL MATERIALS" YOU HAVE TO
MANUFACTURE YOURSELF.
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E. Other constructive coments, ideas and imput.
I am looking for imput from the actule bolters. If you haven't bolted 5
routes in the last 2 years please don't respond. No offence.
Please respond to mars-@reworkafrica.co.za
Thanks very much
Derek Marshall
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HELMUT MICROYS
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