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The Way Forward
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Derek Marshall
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Aug 19, 2003 05:25 PDT
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-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart Brown <sdbr-@mweb.co.za>
To: sabol-@topica.com <sabol-@topica.com>
Date: Monday, August 18, 2003 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [BOLTS] Top Anchor Systems
No. Helmut Microys' (UIAA) system is the following:
"TWO BOLTS + CHAIN + TWO RINGS (ONE CONNECTED TO THE OTHER)
| | | | THE USE OF TWO RINGS PREVENTS THE ROPE FROM RUBBING ON THE ROCK AND
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GETTING
| | | | PINCHED.
GLUE-IN ANCHORS ONLY FOR ALL APPLICATIONS. THINK LIFE-CYCLE COSTS."
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Unfortunatly not very clearly stated. On further investigation he reveiled
that he was not recomending Stuart's system at all. Not even similar. He
sent me 3 options. 1. Glue in 'P' bolts with two links from each
2. Glue in 'P'bolt with non thread pig
tail
3. Glue in 'P'bolt with non thread welded
pig tail (exactly the same as the pig tail that we placed at the top of the
grage 10 on 'Lovers Walk' in Montagu if you would like to have a lok at
one).
The file Helmut Microys sent is large, so I won't send it to the forum, but
would be pleased to send it to all who would like it. It is really
intresting.
If we were really so intrested in bolting safety we should be using glue in
'P' bolts. After all this is what they use in Europe and they therefore must
be the best option. I propose that we ask the Mountian Club to re- bolt all
the routes in South Africa using 'P' bolts. Dig! Dig! We have to make them
squeal.
Cheers for now Derek Marshall
| | LOOKS LIKE THE SYSTEM I RECOMMEND, AS FOR THE BOLTS BEING NEXT TO ONE
ANOTHER, THE TREND IS IN SERIES IN EUROPE AND THIS MAKES SENCE. THE MAIN
BOLT IS LOADED FULLY AND THE SECOND IS THERE AS BACK UP. THE DOUBLE RING
COULD BE EXPENSIVE BUT, FLATENING THE HANGER A BIT AND PLACING IT WITH THE
BOLT HOLE ON TOP GIVES THE SAME EFFECT AS THE FADERS HANGER AND ONLY ONE
MAILON IS NECESSARY SO THE ROPE DOES NOT GET SQUASHED AGAINST THE ROCK.
LOOKS LIKE THIS COULD BE THE WAY FORWARD.
STUART
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| | Von: "Helmut F. Microys Ph. D." <micr-@telusplanet.net>
An: sabol-@topica.com
Betreff: Re: [BOLTS] Top Anchor Systems
Datum: Son, 17. Aug 2003 0:38 Uhr
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| | THE FOLLOWING ARE COMMENTS THAT REFLECT THE THINKING OF THE UIAA SAFETY
COMMISSION FOR TOP ANCHORS OF ONE-PITCH SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joffrey Hyman" <li-@saclimb.co.za>
To: <sabol-@topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 11:53 PM
Subject: [BOLTS] Top Anchor Systems
| | Post from Derek Marshall
Please can I have some input on preferred top anchor systems. And
comments on below:
A. Systems which require threading
1. Hanger + single ring/link
2. Hanger + double ring/link
3. Hanger + multiple rings/link
4. Hanger + 'D' shackle
5. Threaded eye nuts
6. Double short chain directly bolted to face
7. 6mm thick hanger with rounded edges
8. Glued in 'P' bolts
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TWO BOLTS + CHAIN + TWO RINGS (ONE CONNECTED TO THE OTHER)
THE USE OF TWO RINGS PREVENTS THE ROPE FROM RUBBING ON THE ROCK AND
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GETTING
| | | | PINCHED.
GLUE-IN ANCHORS ONLY FOR ALL APPLICATIONS. THINK LIFE-CYCLE COSTS.
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B. Systems which require no untying to thread
1. Hanger + pig tail
2. Single pig tail direct to the face
4. Double pig tail direct to face
5. Chain direct to wall connected to Stainless crab on hanger
6. 6mm thick hanger with clipable hole for rope
7. Double cold shuts
8. Double short chain fixed direct to face, ending with steel screw
gate
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THE PROBLEM HERE IS WHETHER THERE CAN BE ACCIDENTAL UNCLIPPING OF THE
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ROPE,
| | | | IF THE CLIMBER GOES HIGHER THAN THE ANCHOR. AT LEAST TWO FATALITIES WITH
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A
| | | | CERTAIN PRODUCT IN EUROPE. CHECK THE POSSIBLITY OF THIS HAPPENING WITH
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THE
| | | | DESIGN YOU PLAN TO USE
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C. Single bolt systems as apposed to the current SA fashion of 2 bolt
systems
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YOU SHOULD HAVE REDUNDENCY IN SUCH A SYSTEM AND NOT DEPEND ON ONLY ONE
ANCHOR
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D. So what are the most important components of a successful top anchor
system? Any comments please.
1. Price
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SHOULD NOT MATTER TOO MUCH, IF YOU LOOK AT LIFE-CYCLE COSTS
NOT A PROBLEM WITH A PROPERLY SIZED ANCHOR
DON'T UNDERSTAND
STAINLESS STEEL. IN THE INTERIOR (FIVE km FROM THE COAST) 304 MAY DO IT.
IN THE BETWEEN AREA (UP TO ONE TO TWO km FROM THE COAST) COULD USE 316L
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(EN
| | | | 1.4432, WHICH HAS HIGHER Mo CONTENT) OR 317L.
IN COASTAL RANGES USE TITANIUM, NICKEL ALLOYS SUCH AS INCONEL 625 OR
HASTELLOY C, AUSTENITIC STEELS SUCH AS 254 SMO OR 654 SMO, DUPLEX STEEL
SUCH AS 2205. CHECK OUT AVAILABILITY, PRICE AND MANUFACTURING METHODS
| | 5. Not causing rope damage i.e.. twisting or abrasion
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SOLVED BY PROPER DESIGN OR DOUBLE RING METHOD
| | 6. Number of bolts in system
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MINIMUM TWO
| | 7. Off setting / distributing force
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DON'T UNDERSTAND. BOLTS ARE GENERALLY PLACED SIDE-BY SIDE, BUT COULD BE
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IN
| | | | SERIES, IF PROPERLY DESIGNED
FOLLOW MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS
| | 9. End user process education (education on how to safely thread)
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SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE FALLEN OFF (BEEN KILLED) DURING THIS PROCESS. VERY
IMPORTANT
GENERALLY NOT A PROBLEM ON ONE-PITCH CLIMBS
TITANIUM BOLTS SEE www.ushba.com. FOR OTHER "COASTAL MATERIALS" YOU HAVE
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TO
| | | | MANUFACTURE YOURSELF.
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E. Other constructive coments, ideas and imput.
I am looking for imput from the actule bolters. If you haven't bolted 5
routes in the last 2 years please don't respond. No offence.
Please respond to mars-@reworkafrica.co.za
Thanks very much
Derek Marshall
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HELMUT MICROYS
Bolt Safe or Bolt Not!
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Bolt Safe or Bolt Not!
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