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Re: The Way Forward
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G Peckham
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Aug 19, 2003 23:46 PDT
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Joffrey Hyman wrote:
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AGREED !!!!!! - i always preferred climbing routes with nice big U-bolt
glue-ins.
they were easier to clip than hangers and i could thread and lower off
at any point if i had bitten off more than i could chew! when i
eventually started bolting routes myself, i was keen to use only
glue-ins. i did a reasonable amount of homework and pestered many
people - joffrey bore the brunt of it - and eventually came to the
conclusion that glue-ins are the answer PROVIDED they are done by
EXPERTS with lots of EXPERIENCE(*). there are SO MANY things that can
go wrong with glue-ins and virtually none of these problems is VISIBLE
to the bolter or the climber. by contrast, you need an IQ in single
figures to really mess up an expansion bolt. joffrey is advising hilti
bolts - i have been using Upats - i can get them cheaper and they have a
double collar which i like - any comments on hilti vs upat? cheers,
gavin.
(*) the problem is the routes that you glue whilst you are getting the
necessary experience !
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